Also, I saw some snakies sunning themselves on the shoulder, all squiggled up, and they darted away as I approached! I soooo wanted to pick them up and wave them around, but they were too quick.
Today I spent almost the entire ride listening to a riveting book called Methland. By turns fascinating, horrifying, and exciting, and it changed my perception of the territory I was passing through.
Now I am holed up in a rather nice hotel. It's pricey - more than double what I paid yesterday - but on the other hand, I have a private bathroom and the walls don't reek of cigarette ash.
Today's totals: 74 miles, mostly into a despicable headwind, and supposedly 4000 calories burned. Nevertheless I didn't feel particularly hungry when I got into town.